Amigurumi Bunny Keychain - A Sphere - Math Crochet Tutorial

STARTSEITE|AMIGURUMI KEYCHAIN

Amigurumi Bunny Keychain - A Sphere - Math Crochet Tutorial

★★★★★ 4.4 · 41

Dana Whitlock16.07.2026JUMP TO TUTORIAL

I promise you this bunny is a geometry lesson wearing a keyring. Every amigurumi shape — the round head, the oval body, the flat ears — follows rules I can graph, and once you see them, you will never eyeball a stuffed sphere again. I built this one over an afternoon at my studio table, and I photographed every stage so you can check your own work against mine, stitch for stitch.

Gathering the Geometry: What You Actually Need

Before a single stitch, I lay everything out the way you see in Photo 1: a ball of cream cotton, a smaller skein of pale pink, my 2.5mm hook, fiberfill, stitch markers, a pair of tiny black safety eyes, a yarn needle, and the keyring clasp that turns this from a toy into a keychain.

• Yarn weight matters more than color: a worsted-weight cotton with a 2.5mm hook gives you a dense fabric that holds its shape without stuffing showing through.
• Safety eyes are exactly that — the backing washer locks from the inside, so plan your placement before you close anything up.
• The keyring clasp gets sewn in during assembly, not glued on after, so pick one now with a sturdy jump ring.

Nothing here is decorative. Every item on that pink linen has a job.

The Head Is a Sphere, and Spheres Have a Formula

In Photo 2 I am mid-round on the head, working continuous spiral single crochets with no slip stitch joins — the hallmark of amigurumi construction. What looks improvised is not: a crocheted sphere is built from six evenly spaced increases per round on the way up, held flat through the equator, then six matching decreases per round on the way down.

I count increases the way I used to grade quizzes — out loud, under my breath, every single round, because losing track by even one stitch shifts your six increase points and the sphere goes lopsided instead of round. If your head is coming out egg-shaped, check your increase spacing before you blame your tension.

A sphere is just a circle that agreed to keep going. The math doesn't change — you're only adding a third dimension to count.

This head measures roughly 4 cm across at its widest round, which is the scale that keeps the whole bunny keychain-sized rather than bag-charm-sized.

Stuffing Firmly, Before You Think You're Done

Photo 3 shows the part beginners rush: packing fiberfill into the head before the last two or three rounds close it up. I stuff in small pinches, pushing toward the center with the blunt end of my yarn needle, checking for lumps by rolling the sphere gently between my palms.

Under-stuffed heads sag and won't hold safety eyes at even height later. Over-stuffed heads stretch the stitches until you can see fiberfill through the gaps, which ages badly and looks fuzzy rather than clean.

My rule from years of testing: the head should feel like a firm stress ball, springing back the instant you release pressure, with zero visible gaps between stitches when held up to a window. Stuff now, while the opening is still wide enough for your fingers — not after the final round is closed, when you're forced to feed fiberfill through a coin-sized hole and swear at it.

Eye Placement Is Ratio, Not Guesswork

In Photo 4 I am using a stitch marker as a spacing guide before committing to the safety eyes — pushing the posts through the fabric only once I'm certain of position, because these backings do not release once locked.

The placement I use, every time:

1. Find the vertical center of the face by counting rounds from the top decrease point.
2. Space the eyes roughly 10-12 stitches apart on a head this size, measured round-to-round rather than eyeballed.
3. Set both eyes on the same round — one row higher or lower on one side is the single most common cause of a lopsided-looking amigurumi face.

I test with markers, step back, tilt the head under the studio light the way you'd check a picture frame, and only then push the eyes through and snap the washers on from inside. There is no undo button here, so the five extra seconds of checking are the cheapest insurance in the whole project.

Two Ears, Two Colors, One Length Rule

Photo 5 shows the ears laid flat beside the finished head — long narrow ovals worked flat in rows, cream on the outer edge with a pale pink panel folded to sit as the inner ear once sewn on.

A working proportion I hold to: bunny ears run about 1.5 to 2 times the head's diameter in length for that classic floppy silhouette, rather than short round ears, which read more like a mouse than a rabbit.

I crochet both ears identically — same stitch count, same row count — then lay them side by side before moving on, because mismatched ears are invisible mid-project and glaring in the final photo. If yours are off by even two rows, it's faster to rip back now than to disguise it at the sewing stage.

The Body: A Smaller, Softer Repeat of the Head

Photo 6 catches the body mid-construction, a smaller oval shape partially stuffed, resting beside the finished head for scale comparison — a habit I recommend to every amigurumi maker, because proportion errors are far easier to catch side by side than in isolation.

The body follows the same increase-hold-decrease logic as the head, just compressed into fewer rounds and stuffed a touch more loosely so the finished bunny can bend slightly at the neck when it's attached. I aim for a body roughly two-thirds the head's height — small enough that the head still reads as the dominant, huggable feature, which is what makes these keychains look intentionally cute rather than accidentally lopsided.

Stuff it now while the opening's wide, same rule as the head, then set it aside for assembly.

Assembly: Where Geometry Becomes a Face

Photo 7 is the slow, satisfying part — sewing ears, tiny arms, and legs onto the head and body with a yarn needle, and stitching a small pink nose with embroidery thread right at the center of the face, just below and between the eyes.

• Sew ears at a slight forward angle, not straight up, for that soft, listening look rather than stiff antenna ears.
• Attach limbs symmetrically by counting rounds from a fixed reference point on each side, the same way I placed the eyes.
• Embroider the nose last, once the eyes are set, so you can center it visually against them rather than guessing blind.

I weave every yarn tail through the stuffing rather than trimming it flush against the surface — a keychain gets more handling than a shelf toy, and buried tails survive years of keys jangling against it.

The Finished Bunny, Ready for Your Keys

Photo 8 is the payoff: a cream and pale-pink bunny, ears standing tall, safety eyes catching the light evenly on both sides, and a metal keyring clasp sewn firmly through the crown of the head where the fabric is thickest and least likely to stretch under repeated tugging.

Set the clasp where reinforced rounds meet, not through a single thin layer — I learned this the hard way on an early prototype that parted ways with its keys in a coat pocket by week two. This version has held daily use on my own bag for months without a single popped stitch.

Hold it up the way I did for this final shot: soft natural light, both ears visible, face centered. If your bunny looks back at you evenly from both sides, your rounds, your increases, and your eye spacing all did their job.

DIY-Tutorial Pin Print

Amigurumi Bunny Keychain - A Sphere - Math Crochet Tutorial

★★★★★ 4.4 · 41 ratings

Learn the crochet snake amigurumi pattern with the geometry behind every taper, stripe, and coil — beginner-friendly, gauge-checked, and math-shame-free.

Amigurumi Keychainamigurumi bunny keychain

PREP TIME15 min

Work Time150 min

TOTAL TIME165 min

Yield1 amigurumi bunny keychain

DifficultyMedium

Costapprox. $12

Materials

• Yarn
• 1 ball cream cotton yarn, worsted weight (approx. 30g used)
• 1 small skein pale pink cotton yarn, worsted weight (approx. 10g used)
• Tools
• 2.5mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle (blunt tip)
• 2-3 stitch markers
• Notions
• 1 pair black safety eyes, 6mm
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• 1 keyring clasp with jump ring
• Small length of pink embroidery thread (for nose)

Steps

1

Lay out your materials

Arrange yarn, hook, stuffing, eyes, markers, needle, and clasp before starting, exactly as staged in the first photo, so no step gets interrupted by a search for supplies.

2

Crochet the head as a sphere

Work in continuous spiral single crochets, increasing by six evenly spaced stitches per round until the head reaches about 4 cm across, then hold that stitch count flat for several rounds before decreasing symmetrically to close.

3

Stuff the head firmly

Pack fiberfill in small pinches while the opening is still wide, checking for lumps by rolling the sphere gently, until the head feels like a firm stress ball with no visible gaps between stitches.

4

Place and set the safety eyes

Mark eye positions with stitch markers first, confirm they sit on the same round and roughly 10-12 stitches apart, then push the posts through and lock the backing washers from inside.

5

Crochet two matching ears

Work each ear flat in rows using cream on the outer edge and pale pink for the inner panel, matching stitch and row counts exactly so both ears come out identical in length.

6

Crochet and stuff the body

Shape a smaller oval using the same increase-hold-decrease logic as the head, stuffing it a touch more loosely so the finished bunny can bend slightly once assembled.

7

Assemble head, body, ears, and limbs

Sew the ears on at a slight forward angle and attach arms and legs symmetrically by counting rounds from a fixed reference point on each side of the body.

8

Embroider the face and attach the clasp

Stitch a small pink nose centered below the eyes, then sew the keyring clasp firmly through the thickest, most reinforced part of the crown so it withstands daily use.

Hi! I'm Dana

Hi, I'm Dana! Math teacher for 11 years, crocheter for 27, and the numbers nerd behind Yarn Wren. I design crochet garments genuinely graded…

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Conclusion

That's the whole bunny: six increases, one honest ratio between ears and head, and a keyring sewn where the fabric can actually hold it. Make one, tag me if you post it, and if a round goes sideways, bring it to Frog and Fix — we'll count together.

May your gauge be true,

Dana